How To Use Testors Clear Parts Cement
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| Testors Clear Window Cement Posted by loathar on Thursday, March 6, 2008 11:08 AM Anybody have any luck with this stuff? I got a bottle and tried some yesterday. Stuff takes forever to dry. (overnight) Stuff dries about as clear as dull coat. I pressed on the windows lightly today and they popped right out. It seems like it's nothing more than watered down Elmers glue. I'd be afraid of all my windows falling off in a month with this stuff. Any similar experiences? Is that GS watch crystal cement that Micro Mark sells any better?
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| Posted by CSX_road_slug on Thursday, March 6, 2008 11:29 AM Hi Loathar, I admit I haven't tried it myself yet, but I've heard several modelers speak highly about Future Floor Polish - that stuff dries glossy, and is hard as a rock! I bet that would hold your windows in place... -Ken in Maryland (B&O modeler, former CSX modeler)
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| Posted by RicHamilton on Thursday, March 6, 2008 11:29 AM I gotta ask, how often are you gonna be pressing on the windows? I gave heard of most people using the white glue to put windows in. That way if it goes astray, it is much less noticable than the CA crazing or sloppiness of the plastic glues
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| Posted by G Paine on Thursday, March 6, 2008 11:32 AM I use Micro Kristal Kleer. It appears to be in the acrylic gloss medium family. It dries to a rubbery consistancy in 5 or 10 minutes, and hardens to a glossy clear surface. It does not craze clear styrene and the part is removable. You can also use it to make windows; run a bead around the window edge, then draw a toothpick across the surface. It will make a bubble across the opening. Not as good as clear styrene, glass or acetate, but works great for curved surfaces like car windshields. http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-9&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=3 George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
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| Posted by MisterBeasley on Thursday, March 6, 2008 11:38 AM I use something called Canopy Cement, from the model airplane crowd. I don't have it in front of me, so I don't know the manufacturer. It goes on milky, but dries clear and seems to hold pretty well. It's not fast-drying, though, even in small doses. I've used it to fill in as glass in small multi-pane windows, and it's well over 24 hours before it's all done. It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
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| Posted by loathar on Thursday, March 6, 2008 11:40 AM
I'm just worried about the stuff drying out and the windows falling off on there own after a month. I've got a lot of windows to do and would hate to do them twice.
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RicHamilton wrote: ![Tongue [:P]](https://cs.trains.com/trccs/emoticons/icon_smile_tongue.gif){kind=icon}
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| Posted by RicHamilton on Thursday, March 6, 2008 11:52 AM
Let is sit longer than overnight. I think watered down glue would take longer take longer. Also try full strength white glue. The Krystal Klear also works but I think that is just overpriced white glue.
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| Posted by wgnrr on Thursday, March 6, 2008 12:00 PM
I wouldn't use Future Floor Wax if I were you....I got a tip that it would work great as a sealer for decals and paint on model railroad cars...from a decal manufacturer. A few months later, my engines and cars started turning a tint of yellow. That said manufacturer went OOB last year. Phil My Photo Albums: http://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/martin_lumber/ http://tinyurl.com/3yzns6
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| Posted by mikesmowers on Thursday, March 6, 2008 12:32 PM loather, I tried using it when I was building my Merchant's Rows and had the same experence as you. I am afraid of using it for the same reasons. I think on my next windows I am going back to the regular Teastors glue and be VERY careful and only use a small drop in each corner of the glazing. Some of the windows I have put in are going to be almost impossible to re-do after I get all the interiors done. I will be watching this thread closely to see where it goes from here. Good luck. Mike Modeling Trains Is Not A Matter Of Life Or Death, It Is Much More Important Than That!!
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| Posted by loathar on Thursday, March 6, 2008 12:36 PM mikesmowers -Which one did you try? The Testors or the GS watch crystal cement?
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| Posted by mikesmowers on Thursday, March 6, 2008 1:36 PM I used the Testors in the white triangle (sort of) bottle with the purple lable. Testors Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker, I don't see a part No. on the bottle. Mike Modeling Trains Is Not A Matter Of Life Or Death, It Is Much More Important Than That!!
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| Posted by Packer on Thursday, March 6, 2008 1:49 PM I use medium viscostiy CA. I apply with a toothpick and any that seeps out behind the windowframes gets hit hit a black fine point marker. the excess end up looking like the rubber gaskets around windows. Vincent Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question.... 2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
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| Posted by csmith9474 on Thursday, March 6, 2008 3:00 PM
I haven't had that problem. I used Future on 16 passenger cars 2 years ago, and they still look as good as the day I sprayed them. Did you try to thin it somehow? Smitty
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| Posted by LD357 on Thursday, March 6, 2008 4:31 PM The name on the Testors clear part ''cement'' is misleading, it's not actually a glue, it's for making small windows [like on aircraft or ship models] or attaching clear parts like aircraft canopies, headlights or similar pieces, it makes pretty good lenses for loco headlights but it's just not strong enough to actually hold anything in place. I use Aileens tacky glue for windows in my buildings, it really holds them in there, and it dries clear so if you make a booboo it isn't obvious, CA glue fumes will settle on everything and turn it white, thats why I don't use them for clear parts. I heard the Future floor wax scenario many years ago and tried it once, it didn't yellow but it didn't work like I wanted, I've never heard of using it like glue. LD357
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| Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 6, 2008 4:55 PM
Been there! I was working on a friend's layout, attempting to place a large industry flat along the wall when all the windows started falling out!
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![Whistling [:-^]](https://cs.trains.com/trccs/emoticons/icon_smile_whistling.gif){kind=icon}
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| Posted by sfcouple on Thursday, March 6, 2008 5:33 PM I've had excellent results with my wife's craft glue made by "Bond Adhesives." It is called "Instant Grrrip" (that is how they spell the name) white craft cement. It does resemble white glue but is more tacky and will dry clear. I've had windows firmly attached for nearly a year without any difficulties. Wayne Modeling HO Freelance Logging Railroad.
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| Posted by wgnrr on Thursday, March 6, 2008 7:16 PM No, I did not have to thin the future floor wax, per instructions. Phil My Photo Albums: http://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/martin_lumber/ http://tinyurl.com/3yzns6
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| Posted by trolleyboy on Thursday, March 6, 2008 10:43 PM The testors window cement is basically the same stuff as the micro crystal clear,I've used both to make windows on models and to glue the clear plastic or acetate windows into buildings etc.Both worked well but both I've found take a good 18 hours to set up. I've since used the medium thick puzzle glue that Milton Bradley makes to permanently attach jig saw puzzles together when you frame them. It costs less than either of the other products and it dries completly clear,also I found that it dries in about six hours as well. ( when you use it on puzzles you paint it on the front picture side of it )I haven't had any windows fall out that I've used it on and I've used it on locomotives and structures,another option for you guys to concider. Rob
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| Posted by shayfan84325 on Friday, March 7, 2008 12:05 AM I like 5-minute epoxy. It holds well, cures hard and clear in 5 minutes, and it doesn't attack the plastic. Phil,
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| Posted by Arjay1969 on Friday, March 7, 2008 7:47 AM I use Elmer's Craft Bond, myself. It's just as thick as regular Elmer's glue, but it dries clear and FLEXIBLE, so it tends to hold better on parts like windows, etched parts, etc. I think Krystal Clear, Canopy Glue, and a lot of the others are probably closely related to this stuff. Plus, you can get a regular-sized bottle of this stuff for about $3 at Wally World. Robert Beaty The Laughing Hippie ----------------------------------------------------------------- The CF-7...a waste of a perfectly good F-unit! ----------------------------------------------------------------- Then it comes to be that the soothing light at the end of your tunnel, Was just a freight train coming your way. -Metallica, No Leaf Clover -----------------------------------------------------------------
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![My 2 cents [2c]](https://cs.trains.com/trccs/emoticons/icon_smile_2cents.gif){kind=icon}
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| Posted by jerryl on Friday, March 7, 2008 9:47 AM I, like many of the others have tried just about everything & settled on tacky craft glue. It sticks to just about anything & dries clear. I also use it to fasten corrugated roofing to the sub roof, great for gluing paper computer generated signs to styrene also. Jerry
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| Posted by Yamahammer on Friday, March 7, 2008 10:52 AM I use Mod Podge gloss-lustre from Wally world. Dries crystal clear, you can even make your own windows or lenses on wax paper. Then when you get tired of that, use it to do some waterways or just freshen them up. Its cheap to boot-and you probably already have some if these fine folks around here had their say in it-good stuff. Ken
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| Posted by mobilman44 on Friday, March 7, 2008 12:45 PM Hi, I've had good luck using it to glue the clear lucite to the window frames. I have not used it to "make" windows however. Mobilman44 ENJOY ! Mobilman44 Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
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How To Use Testors Clear Parts Cement
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